150
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and so the inhabitants, not only of Northern Mongolia, but also of the whole territories of the Princes, ie., right down to the Chinese line, would look to Russia as the predominant power.
The above report had been sketched out previous to crossing the Altaishan: I have therefore considered it best to let it stand, and merely to add this supplementary but important information regarding a new colony, which has been founded by the Chinese Government in pursuance of their policy of the development of their distant dependencies by Chinese. The settlement of Altaishan, Sharasumé, or Cheng-hwa-ssu, lies on the southern slopes of the Altai range, some 190 miles west of Kobdo, 60 north of Buluntogoi, 6 days east of Zaisan post (in Russian territory), 19 north north-west of Manas and Guchen respectively, and 15 north-east of Chuguchak. Two years ago no buildings existed here, except that of a ruined Lama temple (Shara sumé, i.e., Yellow Temple). A number of Hassacks and Turkis inhabited the district with their nomad tents and herds. Hither came a Manchu officer dispatched by the Central Government, took up his abode in the ruined temple, housed his staff and soldiers in tents, and began the work of the construction of a settlement. This work has been going on steadily since, so that now the yamên is a respectable building, there are numerous low houses for the staff and soldiers (all of mud and wood) and a small town has been built, though it only consists, as yet, of two streets at right angles. Merchants have been begged to come, some eight or ten have responded, these being branches of Peking and Tien-tsin shops, and a fair number of Turkis have also arrived. The merchants have their shops and ground free; the former they find ready for occupation, for the building goes on ceaselessly, and the number of empty houses is considerable. The garrison numbers 1,000 men, 600 Mongols, and 400 Chinese, who are also carpenters, bricklayers, tailore, &c. Six German guns arrived in September. The colony is eventually to be established on the plain 30 miles to the south, and is only here provisionally. The present site was selected because of the few buildings already in existence. It is three- quarters of a mile from the Kilingho river, and is situated on rising ground among low hills, which lie in their turn among the mountains. A small canal brings water from the stream winding round and among the hillocks.
A study of this colony shows that the Chinese Government are in earnest as regards their policy.
In connection with this, extracts from my diary under a later section will interest.
Urga.
prove of
The first signs that the traveller approaching Urga from Sair JUssu is nearing his goal many be seen in the change of scenery two days to the south. Here the plains and gently rolling downs which have characterized the Gobi become transformed into narrow valleys and low hills over which the track climbs by numerous little passes, usually very abrupt. Most of the valleys have pools of water or marshy ground in them, and the pasturage is exceedingly good. On this a large nomad population lives. Possibly the proximity of the sacred town of Urga has something to do with the increase in the number of yourts. On reaching a cairn on the summit of a small pass some half-way between the third and fourth post-stations from Urga the Bogdo Ula become visible. It is with some pleasure that one sights its wooded heights, for it must not be supposed that the change in scenery has brought with it any change as regards trees, and the valleys and hills are just as devoid of these as ever the Gobi was. One is also led to hope that there will be an end of this treeless state, but herein one is disappointed, for although there is an enormous amount of timber on the mountains north of Urga there is not a single tree visible from the city in or around Urga except on the Bogdo Ula. Having sighted the ridge the track bends slightly to the north-west to get round its flank, and for the last 12 miles runs due east. The sacred town itself is visible from a point 8 miles to the west, where the road crosses a small spur of the range to descend into the Tola valley. At this point there are two obos, unusually fanatically decorated with prayer flags and bones. From here onwards Urga is constantly in sight, and the path runs first over ground gently sloping down to the river, then along the river itself, finally crossing the stream and a number of backwaters and creeks, and reaching the town over a plain 1 miles broad.
The Tola flows down the valley from east to west under shelter of the Bogdo Ula. The day we first forded it (for there is no bridge) it was split up into numerous channels, which embraced several stretches of good pastureland to which cattle had managed to reach.
The main stream at that time was about 200 yards wide and 2 feet deep with a swift current.
71
The ford is somewhat peculiar. About 100 yards across a course upstream to the north-east has to be taken; sheep and goats are towed across, and have to swim for their lives; they reach the opposite shore in a most exhausted and lamentable plight. Except where the stream passes immediately under the shadow of the Bogdo Ula the banks are flat. The second time we crossed the river-nine days later-circumstances had entirely changed. Very severe rains had fallen in the meantime, and for most of these days the river had been unfordable. As there is no boat or ferry on the river communication with the south was temporarily suspended. The day before we attempted to cross it had been entirely clear until evening, when such violent rain ensued for two hours that it seemed that the hope of crossing in the morning would have to be abandoned. However, the river, which before the previous day's rain had been reported to be in no better state, took a turn for the better during the night in spite of the rain, and we found a native resident on the banks who was willing to risk a crossing. As in all the creeks and backwaters the water had been up to the ponics' chests it was rather auxions work, the stream being considerably broader than usual, and as the water was swirling down at a great pace. The heavily-laden camels had great difficulty in keeping their footing-fortunately the bed is stony and not mud or sand-and my small eart was entirely submerged. The crossing was an anxious piece of work which we were glad to see finished.
Urga or Kuren or Da Khure, the God Lama's encampment, can only be described. as a vast camp. The oldest portion is that which lies on rising ground above the river bed. This portion, however, has overflowed to the east into the broad bed, dry except in the rainy season, of a mountain stream which unites with the Tola. This lower portion is known as Gandan. At the eastern extremity of this district is the Amban's residence and, 300 yards to the north-east of this, the barracks. A mile further to the east, past ground little built on, brings the traveller to the Russian Consulate, post-office, &c. ; after another couple of hundred yards the Russo-Chinese Bank is reached, and a mile "Maima- further on the most easterly point of all, the original Chinese trade borough, chin," where is the Chinese telegraph station. A good road, but stony, connects all these places, passing over numerous well-kept wooden bridges spanning the numerous mountain torrent beds.
The need of these bridges was very apparent during our stay in Urga, as each bed was transformed into a raging torrent, some only for a short space of time, others for several days. The heavy rain, unfortunately, had little effect in improving the state of the narrow lanes and paths which serve as streets in Urga, the filth of which it is quite impossible to describe. The only attempt at sanitation seems to be in Maimachin, where the streets are better kept.
The chief centre of trade seems now to be Gandan, where the market-place is, and round which are the Russian and Chinese shops--for the day is passed when the Chinese were confined to Maimachin to trade. The only Chinese inn to be found, a miserable place, was also in Gandan, and the market-place is daily the centre of bustling activity. One end of it is reserved for the pony market, and another holds the booths where nothing but Mongol boots are sold. These are of Russian leather, and are made locally. The ladies who sell Mongol hats have reserved another corner for themselves, while everywhere booths are scattered about at which such cheap things are displayed as may tempt the Mongols' fancy. These things are chiefly those that glitter, bright metal match boxes, cheap gaudy rings, &c. Even when the usually dry torrent bed had become a raging stream, a number of booths still managed to retain their position. All the Chinese shops seem to sell everything from cheap snuff boxes, good silk and cloth, Chinese shoes, and blue enamel ware, to really good skins, such as sable and fox. The prices for everything are as varied as the number of goods sold. Everything depends on who the purchaser is, how great his need, and also how trade is going, and whether the article is in demand or not. If not, then some of the stock must be got rid of at no matter what price. Sometimes the merchant can get ten times the usual price for any article. A young lama comes in to buy a snuff bottle on behalf of a big laina, who wants to make a present at once. The bottle must be bought at no matter what price. So up this mounts till it cannot recognize itself. The merchants are chiefly men from Shansi or Peking. Some I was told few I met had been established at Urga for more than twenty-five years. that no Chinese who is a bad character can settle in the town.
This means that some one has to guarantee every new arrival. Formerly, merchants could make several thousands of taels a-year, but those good days are gone, and trade is now very bad. Sometimes shops have to be closed, and the firms recross the Gobi, The land belongs to the Mongols, and if anyone wants to buy land on which to erect a Most new comers, however, rent them shop, he has to apply to the Mongol Amban.
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